Friday, July 2, 2010

A woman who doesn’t wear perfume has no future.” These were the words of Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel, the famous French fashion designer who introduced the iconic women’s perfume, Chanel No. 5 way back in 1921. Known as one of the most legendary fragrances, it became even more famous after American actress Marilyn Monroe mischievously said, “What do I wear in bed? Why Chanel No. 5 of course.”

With aromatic notes of grass jasmine, may rose, sandalwood and vanilla, the fragrance remains one of the bestselling perfumes of all times with claims of one bottle being sold every 55 seconds! Interestingly, top-of-the-line fragrances have always been an accessory of choice for most.

Perfumes as luxury accessory buys are one of the most popular must-have items on the aspirational buyers’ list as well. According to industry estimates, the size of the total domestic luxury perfume market is around Rs 600-700 crore and is growing at a rate of 20-25 % year-on-year.

Rohit Chadha, head of the consumer products vertical at Technopak Advisors, says that high-end perfumes are doing brisk business in India. “An outlet at a mall selling luxury fragrances can easily expect to do a sale of Rs 40,000-50,000 in a day! The market for such perfumes has a huge potential in India with a lot of players operating in multi-brand outlets as well, besides boutiques or standalone stores.”

The trend this season is a whiff of summer. Keeping the summer spirit in mind, luxury majors are counting on breezy, floral and fruity notes to entice customers. It’s more botanical, fruity and woody fragrances for men whereas fruity and floral notes for women, says Ramana Kasibhatla, sales and marketing manager at Burberry Perfumes India.

The bestselling buys of leading luxe brands say it all. Italian luxury brand Prada is seeing a growing affinity from male customers for its Prada Pour Homme which strikes a harmony between contrasting notes such as fresh and sensual as well as clean and leathery. Another perfume L’eau Ambrée, a new addition to the Prada Classic range, is also doing well as it combines a fresh approach to the balancing of notes such as citron , may rose and amber, according to Devasish Dutta , brand manager, Prada Perfumes India.

Julie DeClermont Tonnerre, marketing manager, luxury products division of L’Oreal India which markets brands such as Lancome, Ralph Lauren Fragrances, Giorgio Armani Fragrances and Diesel Fragrances says that the trend in fragrances varies depending on which time of the day it is worn.

“During the day it is light aqueous or marine scents for men that are comfortable such as the Acqua Di Gio by Giorgio Armani. For women, it is fruity and floral with a modern twist of gourmand sweetness, as in the case in Summer Romance by Ralph Lauren which has key notes of passion fruit, hibiscus and apricot musk. At night, it’s deeper sensual fragrances such as the Armani Code for men and women that are a favourite.” 

The diverse selection available in perfumes today makes them a highly sought after buy. Moreover, those who want to associate with a leading luxury brand also prefer buying fragrances first. So in that sense, this category sees a lot of aspirational buyers.

Benny Ramchandani, head, marketing and sales of MKP Distributors, which distributes 43 fragrance brands in India, including Hugo Boss and Dunhill says that fragrances are becoming quite popular in India as splurging items.

“A closer look and we can easily agree that wardrobes are changing and so are shopping habits with hygiene and grooming being on top of the spenders’ list. And it’s not just the woman who used to be demanding a decade ago. The men’s category today has shown a huge upward graph and their demand for fragrances is on an upsurge.”

Interestingly, Mr Kasibhatla of Burberry Perfumes India, says that 55% of their sales is from their male customers. “India has traditionally been a strong men’s market as far as perfumes is concerned. In other parts of the world this percentage would probably be 70:30 in favour of women. But in India, it is different. Eau de Toilette which is less concentrated and has lesser price points sells far more than Eau de Parfum here,” she says.

Celebrities have their own favourites. And while some are loyal to a particular brand, others confess to trying out different scents every time. Fashion designer Riddhima Kapoor Sahni, daughter of Rishi Kapoor and Neetu Singh, admits to being addicted to her Judith Leiber perfume. “It’s very light and fresh and I prefer using that kind of a fragrance. While in college, I used to wear Dolce and Gabbana’s ‘By’, but then eventually graduated to Judith Leiber. A perfume is an integral part of my accessory wardrobe. I carry small testers in my bag and even use it before I sleep, as I always want to feel good,” she says.

However, socialite Shivani Wazir isn’t that committed to a single brand. “I am not completely loyal. But I do like Beautiful by Estee Lauder. So whenever it’s a matter of going back to what I like, I tend to go back to this one. Otherwise, I like trying a more varied range.”

Sprinkle on a little. Your aura will be alluring. Now isn’t that an aromatic thought? 

HELENA RUBENSTEIN PRODIGY POWERCELL YOUTH GRAFTER

By using vegetal stem cells of Oceanic Crista for the first time, Helena Rubenstein has created a new cosmetic prodigy, Prodigy Powercell Youth Grafter. HR has obtained spectacular results in an *in vitro study at the Skin Substitute Laboratory of Lyon, using Prodigy Powercell's extract of vegetal stem cells of Oceanic Crista for dermal and epidermal regeneration.

Capitalizing on extensive research into vegetal stems since the launch of Prodigy Extreme in 2009, Helena Rubenstein Laboratories have developed Prodigy Powercell from Oceanic Crista, a precious active ingredient with exceptional revitalizing properties. 

100% concentrate: Vegetal stem cells of Oceanic Crista are generated in vitro by biotechnology. By favoring an original procedure that obtain vegetal stem cells, Helena Rubenstein Laboratories are foreunners in biotechnology using authentically natural active principles, without endangering the survival of the species. 

100% active power: Far from being common vegetal cells, these stem cells contain a cluster of active properties which have allowed the plant to grow and develop its various organs even in the most hostile environments. The capacities of Oceanic Crista stem cells are potentialized in the active cells which abound with a myriad of stimulating and anti-oxidant factors.

Oceanic Crista is a powerful pant with exceptional survival capacities. The stem cells act on the three main anti-aging mechanisms: cellular regeneration, tissue repair and anti-radical defense. First appearing in the depths of the ocean, over the ages, Oceanic Crista gradually migrated to land, eventually blooming on rocky coastlines. It is one of the rare plants able to survive on wave-beaten rocks and to grow on land where sea-spray is usually fatal for other plants, and where the soil is laden with salt. It draw water from deep down, storing it in its plump leaves, making it able to resist longer in arid conditions.

Accustomed to fighting for survival over the ages, Oceanic Crista has developed extraordinary defense mechanisms which secrete trace elements, mineral salts, iodine, and vitamins, giving it an exceptional resistance to time.


SOME COMMENTS FROM A RELEVANT THREAD ON STEM CELLS FOR ANTI-AGING PRODUCTS:
George Majewski, R&D - Basic Research at Resources of Nature
"Culturing plant stem cells is a biotech process which has allowed us to produce very rare and very active molecules at high efficacious concentrations.  Rare molecules exist in nature which cannot be manufactured synthetically and cannot be extracted from plants to yield significant concentrations. Culturing stem cells allows us to overcome these huge process obstacles. More importantly, the process is 100% green and we can now grow cells of endangered plant species without environmental harm. Plant stem cells are clean and 100% free of all environmental pollutants including heavy metals, pesticides and aflatoxins which are found in certified organic plants and extracts. We have already generated stem cell extractions which yield drug-quality ingredients yet can carry at plant name. We have ingredients for a wide range of skin care applications: acne, wrinkles, inflammation… supported with studies. One plant stem cell molecule we extracted has a Total ORAC 27 times the ORAC of a leading acai berry extract. This plant stem cell antioxidant also inhibits melanin secretion to brighten skin. I believe that plant stem cells already offer some significant alternatives to basic plant extracts and these ingredients will be the future for both cosmetic and dietary applications. The future is here!"

Karl Lintner, Consulting/ Training/ Education at KAL'IDEES 
"There is a confusion between the science and the marketing aspects: to claim that plant stem cell derived ingredients are more efficacious for human skin cells than other plant derived substances is absurd, just "riding the wave of "stem cells". But to use plant cell culture as a technology to produce and isolate plant substances (pure or complex) has ecological advantages: biodiversity is maintained, potentially less use of solvents, better yields. The skin activity of the substances obtained either by extraction (classical) or by plant cell culture (so called "plant stem cells") is independent of where the substance comes from! only its chemical composition and structure are factors that determine its benefits (or risks!)."

Kevan Dilbeck, Corporate Management at SkinWithin Services Skincare 
"I believe that plant stem cells are the flavor of the month. The only efficacy studies come from the manufacturer and even if you believe the studies, the plant stem cells do not produce the same level of efficacious results that many proven ingredients do." 

POST YOUR COMMENTS TOO !!! 

Summer Scents Recommendations from Fifi Award Winners

A few weeks ago, the annual awards of the Fragrance Foundation were held. Known as the FiFis, these awards are the Oscars of the industry. There were, like any awards shows, a few surprises and a few past winners who took home another award this year.

One of the highlights was seeing Bond No.9 win not just one but two FiFis. Bond No. 9 has been nominated several years running but had never won. This year they took honors for their Astor Place and Brooklyn scents. While Astor Place is a nice floral, Brooklyn is a star. It is unusual with it’s main note of cardamom and not like anything else out there. It may have won in Men’s Nouveau Niche, but this is easily a scent for women as well.


Once again, Victoria’s Secret took home the award for private label/direct sell with Love Rocks. They won this category last year as well as several years previous.

Slatkin’s Scentbug, one of the cutest little home fragrance ideas ever took, unsurprisingly, the award for best interior scent collection. For those who want scent without candles burning, this is a must.

Michael Kors was the man of the hour at the FiFis , as he was inducted into the Hall of Fame. Kors has become a solid presence in the fragrance world since his highly successful debut scent Michael by Michael Kors with it’s big tuberose note came out in 2000. He has built on that with variations on the original scent, his Island line and most recently Very Hollywood Michael Kors.

Here is the full list of winners and honorees for 2010. Congratulations to not just the winners, but all the fragrances that were nominated as well.

2010 FiFi Award Winners

Male Celebrity Fragrance of the Year: Usher

Retailer of the Year: Bath & Body Works

FiFi Hall of Fame: Michael Kors

Fragrance of the Year, Men’s Luxe: Tom Ford Grey Vetiver — The Estée Lauder Cos. Inc.

Fragrance of the Year, Women’s Popular Appeal: Halle by Halle Berry — Coty

Fragrance of the Year, Women’s Luxe: Lola Marc Jacobs — Coty Prestige

Fragrance of the Year, Men’s Popular Appeal: Seduction in Black, Antonio Banderas — Puig USA Inc.

Fragrance of the Year, Women’s Nouveau Niche: Bond No. 9 Astor Place — Bond No. 9 New York

Fragrance of the Year, Men’s Nouveau Niche: Bond No. 9 Brooklyn — Bond No. 9 New York

Fragrance of the Year, Women’s Private Label/Direct Sell: Love Rocks — Victoria’s Secret

Fragrance of the Year, Men’s Private Label/Direct Sell: Patrick Dempsey 2 — Avon Products Inc.

Fragrance of the Year, Unique Boutique: Tom Ford White Suede (unisex/women’s) — The Estée Lauder Cos. Inc.

Fragrance Hall of Fame: ck one — Calvin Klein Cosmetics/Coty Prestige

Fragrance of the Year, Bath and Body: Couture Couture by Juicy Couture — Elizabeth Arden

Best Packaging of the Year — Women’s Popular Appeal: Bath & Body Works Signature Collection P.S. I Love You EDT — Bath & Body Works

Best Packaging of the Year, Women’s Prestige: Life Threads Collection: Silver, Gold, Platinum — La Prairie

Best Packaging of the Year, Men’s Popular Appeal: Comme une Evidence — Yves Rocher North America Inc.

Best Packaging of the Year, Men’s Prestige: John Varvatos Artisan — Beauté Prestige International

Best Women’s Media Campaign: Chanel No.5 “No.5: Train de nuit” — Chanel

Best Men’s Media Campaign: ck one “We Are One” — Calvin Klein Cosmetics, Coty Prestige

Best Interior Scent Collection: Scentbug Diffuser — Slatkin & Co./Limited Brands Inc.

Perfume Extraordinaire: Firmenich

Editorial Excellence in Scent features: Allure, Elle, elle.com

Technological Breakthrough, Packaging Technology & Delivery Systems: Victorinox Swiss Unlimited rubber bottle — Victorinox Swiss Army

Technological Breakthrough, Fragrance Creation & Formulation: Miriad 2.0 — Givaudan Fragrances Corp.


- By Diane Artzberger, The Beauty Alchemist

Pantene’s New Customized Pro-V Solutions

A very interesting survey conducted by Pantene Pro-V (conducted in January 2010) showed that 57% of US women all over the nation valued getting great hair over upping their IQ by 10 points. And 91% of women said they had a problem with their hair, but did not know how to quite combat the issues.

Great hair over IQ? An astonishing find indeed. Almost Guinness Book worthy.The survey also found women were late to work or school because they were struggling with their hair. Now, do we need a Haircare Bill passed to settle this phenomenon?

Pantene may well have created a cult classic years ago when they introduced their famous Shampoo and Conditioner combo and their Pro-V line. Don’t you feel as though it were just a stone’s throw from yesterday?


But creating ripples and revolutionary haircare still seems to be very much alive and throbbing in the brand’s R&D labs. Their new Customized Solution line has hit the shelves of every mass market store with their pretty and vividly packaged bottles. Surely, you’ve noticed them?

The new line addresses:
- Fine Hair: the Pantene Pro-V Fine Hair Solutions tackles wispiness with three versions (Flat to Volume; Dry to Moisturized; Fragile to Strong)

- Thick Hair: the Pantene Pro-V Medium Thick Hair Solutions comes in four versions (frizzy to smooth; breakage to strength; dry to moisturized)

- Curly Hair: The two options for this hair type are Curly to Straight and Dry to Moisturized

- Colored Hair: there are SIX versions of this line (Color Preserve Shine; Volume; Smooth; Blonde Expressions; Highlighting Expressions; Brunette Expressions)



Friday, June 25, 2010

Cannes Roars for Gaga!

Marketing is an art - Anonymous but I take some credit and Lady Gaga personifies it. The woman is a phenomenon and  in "Gaga-Anarchy" Mode. As the Integrated entries find their way on the Cannes Bulletin, I saw the woman's name glaring at me. I am thinking - WAIT! FOR REAL!

So I check the campaign details and voila, it is for real. It's all her and like the Pied Piper of Hamlin has lured the marketing toddlers out of their deep slumber and into the Haus of Gaga. From little-known vodka brands to iPods to Alexander McQueen to maybe even the scotch tape that holds her outfits and hats together, Gaga is the ultimate businesswoman of the 21st century. Exclusive, eccentric and down right cut throat. I am dying to get my hands on the show reel Atom Factory has put together for the entry. If the written preview is any cue to the excitement, I bet it will be good. So I leave you with Lady Gaga singing "Bad Romance"



PS: Spot the Brands

GO WOMEN !!!

I just caught the Nike+ Emea MEN Vs. WOMEN ad - cliche yes, executed to perfection !!! Loved it ! Recommend it !!

Garnier "Takes Care Take Charge"

This is the L'Oreal way - Create 'Sustainability' with a brand that echoes nature.Came across the ad during my usual weekly round-up of ads quite some time back but now that I have Versatile Vanity, I can share this with you. (whoever you are!)
If there were ever a company I would gladly take over the world with, it would L'Oreal. A deep history of innovation, leadership, cult brand following and just an at-ease with the world feeling. When the ad came out, I was but happy and surprised with the attempt. Not overtly ambitious but graciously modest. The artwork is alright but the copy rings forthrightness - something most companies of similar stature fail to achieve.  I will let you catch on the copy while I make a quick call to the toll free number at the bottom.

Till next time. Au revoir ! A bien tot !